Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Day 6 Kargil to Drass

Message from Colin on Sat phone - 24 August 2011.
I left Kargil for the second time around 7.30am. and climbed for 72 km to Drass. Not many villages on this route and virtually nowhere to buy food. The road clung to the side of a steep brown valley with a fast flowing river below and towering mountains above. This is the closest the road gets to the Pakistan border and there's a huge military presence here. I cycled past camouflaged huts and bunkers and a massive assortment of army vehicles. At one stage I heard shots ringing out across the canyon and could see Indian soldiers scrambling amongst the rocks and boulders. I stopped in the shade of the bridge that crossed the river for lunch. I washed a few tomatoes, and something that resembled a cucumber and was enjoying those with some biscuits and chocolate, all washed down with warm water from my bottle when I heard a whistle. I looked up to see 3 soldiers striding across the bridge towards me, one with an automatic rifle. The one with the gun said "You have to go sir. Where are you from?" "Australia" I replied. "Ah, Adam Gilchrist!" was his response. He told me the Pakistan border was only 2 km away and that I shouldn't linger and keep going. As I cycled over the bridge I passed a sign that read "YOU ARE UNDER ENEMY OBSERVATION". Needless to say I didn't feel the need to hang around. At least 70% of the road surface was stone and rock today, and only had to walk through a few sections. As I approached Drass I was greeted with a storm coming in from the mountains that brought a bit of rain and a powerful headwind. It took me 10 hours to ride the 72km. Drass looks like a war zone, and it has been one. Cycling into the town I passed a sign claiming Drass to be the second coldest inhabited place in the world. Temperature on the 9 January 1995 was -60˙C.  
I have found a good, quiet place to stay away from the bazar, no electricity but the candles create a warm glow in the sparsely furnished room. I will find some fruit for tomorrow and a good meal tonight. I am happy. 

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